Showing posts with label Versailles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Versailles. Show all posts

Monday, April 16, 2012

Lifestyles of the Rich & Beheaded

It's pretty hard to feel sorry for Louis and Marie-Antoinette when you get a look at the way they lived their lives before they (literally) lost their heads.  Although Versailles was built and reached it's glory under Louis XIV, it was Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette who last lived in the palace.

Our final full day in Paris was actually spent in Versailles.  We took the train (an hour's trip) and walked from the station to the Palace. It was a stunning day: warm and sunny with minimal crowds.  We'd purchased our full access tickets (again, kids were free!) from the tourist office en route from the station so we were able to just walk right in.  Although it looks like there were tons of tourists, the crowds were nowhere near what I'd experienced on a sweltering July day 27 years ago.

Visitors to Versailles on a Thursday morning in March
Versailles: the approach across the Place D'Armes

Royal courtyard gate, Versailles
The Royal Gate, entrance to the Royal Courtyard, home of Louis XIV, the "Sun King"

The nice thing about touring sites with teenagers is that we could all don our own  personal audio-guides (and here I recommend plugging in your personal earbuds/headphones so you don't have to hold the audiophone to your ear) and walk at our own pace. That means three people way ahead, and mom taking pictures of everything always 10 minutes behind.

Ceiling, Chapelle de Versailles
Royal Chapel ceiling 

Mantle ornamentation, Hercules Drawing room, Versailles
Gold, gold and more gold. Ornate mantle decoration in the Hercules Drawing Room

Chandelier and ceiling, Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
Ceiling, the Hall of Mirrors

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Hall of Mirrors: mirrors on the right, corresponding windows overlooking the gardens on the left.

Honestly, they should offer an after-hours tour on wheeled chaise lounges. I'd love to be pulled through the palace while reclined on a comfy bed, just gazing at the incredible paintings on the ceilings. It's really difficult to enjoy the walls and opulent ceilings simultaneously while you have to move at the pace of the crowd. I should have dropped a note in the suggestion box.

Window latch, Palace de Versailles
window latch in the King's chambers

Marie-Antoinette's bedroom & jewelry cabinet, Versailles
Marie Antoinette's bedchamber. Yeah, that's her jewelry box on the left.

Suffice it to say that everywhere you look it's over-the-top opulence. I wish more of the palace was open to the public - apparently up to 5000 nobles could hang out and and party there!  Touring the interior doesn't take very long, but you could really spend an entire day or more just cruising the gardens and grounds.  We made our way out back for a picnic on the stairs overlooking the Royal Drive (along with Italian, Dutch and Spanish high school students on tour).

statue at water parterre, Versailles
Statue detail, water parterre

looking over the Orangerie to the Palace, Versailles
overlooking the Orangerie to the main palace

Orangerie, Versailles
L'Orangerie - where Louis displayed his more than 1000 orange trees in summer. B wondered if there were still citrus trees and sure enough, behind those enormous garage doors are hundreds of potted oranges, grapefruits, lemons and limes awaiting warmer weather before they are moved into position in the outside garden.


Cherubs, tired of waiting for tulips to grow, Versailles
Poor little cherubs, sitting around for 300 years waiting for flowers to bloom

D loves Versailles, 2012
Fully recovered from her stomach flu, D's feeling energetic in the Versailles sun. 

And then, following Rick's advice, we decided to do something super touristy and fun: we rented a golf cart.   I really wanted to see Marie-Antoinette's little getaway, the Petit Trianon (which was actually built for Louis XV's mistresses, but last decorated and used by M-A) as well as the Grand Trianon, built by Louis XIV as a summer getaway from the hustle and bustle of the main palace.  We decided to expedite the visit by motoring the through the gardens instead of walking in the hot sun (round trip, including touring the buildings, was estimated at 5 hours on foot).  When horse-drawn carriage is not an option, a golf cart seems like a good back up plan to me. The kids even grew to enjoy the baroque music pouring from the golf cart speakers!

Off we went, at a blistering pace (D was able to run faster than the cart's top speed. Yes, she proved it) along the prescribed route.  A 15 minute drive and we'd reached Trianon. First, a few shots taken at the Grand Trianon, a pink marble mini-version of Verailles with two main living/meeting wings joined by an open  colonnade. 

Grande Trianon covered passage between wings
Colonnade, Grand Trianon (main entrance courtyard to the right, gardens to the left)

Grande Trianon, Louis XIV bedchamber
Louis XIV's bedchamber (apparently build for his chief mistress)

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Is this chartreuse? I never know...

En route to the Petit Trianon, you pass by the sweet little French Pavillion:

French Pavillion

Petit Trianon, Versailles
Petit Trianon with a view of the dome atop the Temple of Love 

Neoclassical Petit Trianon, Versailles
Petit Trianon

The building was lovely inside, on a much more manageable scale than the gigantic main palace; although that also meant that T barely fit.

T just fits, Petit Trianon, Versailles

Detail, Petit Trianon, Versailles
wall frieze on staircase, Petit Trianon

17th century lock, Petit Trianon, Versailles
I guess bedchamber security is important when marital trysts are 'de rigueur' 

17th century doorknob, Petit Trianon, Versailles
Love the 17th century details like these gorgeous sunflower doorknobs - everything looks better with a layer of gold on it, don't you think?

There you have it - a little taste of Chateau Versailles and the Trianon! This was a special day - we all enjoyed it very much. 

Especially the golf cart.

Golf cart, Versailles